Eat. Drink. Snooze. Travel. Blog

Hotels and Lodging

Affordable Digs: Holiday Inn Express Frankfurt City Hauptbanhof

Frankfurt Hauptbanhof

Our train pulled into Frankfurt rather late, but luckily we had booked a hotel close to the station.  We got a really great deal booking early on the Intercontinental Hotel Group’s Web site – parent company of the Holiday Inn and Holiday Inn Express.  I was also happy that I would be getting Priority Rewards points for the stay.   We booked a night at the Holiday Inn Express Frankfurt City Hauptbanhof, about a 3 blocks away from the train station (Elbestraße 7).  Hardly anyone was out at the late hour when we arrived.  Walking up Kaiserstraße, you’ll notice immediately the Starbucks on the right-hand side (free Wi-Fi).

Holiday Inn Express - Frankfurt

Check-in at the hotel was very quick.  As a Priority Rewards member, I got a really nice letter from the receptionist from the hotel manager greeting me to the hotel.  The letter also informed me that I could request a late check-out at 2pm, which I did.   Also, my room was on the top floor, facing Elbestraße.  To access the hotel’s free Wi-Fi, you will need to get the username and password from the receptionist.

The room itself was lovely, with a refreshing contemporary aesthetic and a color scheme that worked.  Many times when requesting a double bed in Europe, the rooms will have two twin beds pushed together to make one bed.  The bed at the hotel was in fact just one bed (I would say, a little smaller than a King bed), which was nice.  The flat-screen TV was a descent size.  I wished the bathroom had a bathtub.

Snowy Frankfurt

It started to snow the following morning, which added a lovely touch to the historic facades of the buildings across the street.  For lunch we walked down towards the Starbucks on Kaiserstraße. Very close to the Starbucks I had spotted a Vietnamese restaurant on our walk to the hotel the night before.

Pho!

For whatever reason, the though of having Pho (Vietnamese noodle soup with slices of beef) sounded really good to me, especially on the cold and snowy day we were having.  Unfortunately, I failed to jot down the name of the Vietnamese restaurant (bad Jan!), but you can’t miss it walking up Kaiserstraße from the train station.  The Pho that I ordered hit the spot!  So yummy and affordable!

For a hotel close enough to the train station, I would recommend the Holiday Inn Express.  We did not have  breakfast since I snoozed a bit too long while Andreas went out to do his personal business in the city.  Breakfast was not included in my rate, and it would have run a little over 10 euros.  I liked the affordability of the hotel along with how new and modern our room felt.  Plus, it was a great way to collect Priority Reward points!

Images shot with Instagram.


    Off to Berlin: Citadines Kurfürstendamm Berlin Hotel and Other Thoughts

    It’s become somewhat of a given that whenever Andreas and I travel, there’s always bound to be some drama.  Andreas’ flight to Brussels from Chicago hit a snag when on takeoff the American Airlines flight he was on came to an abrupt halt – mechanical issues.  Luckily for him, his platinum status and first-class seat got an immediate and somewhat satisfactory response from the airlines, as he was rebooked on the next and only outbound flight to London, where he would catch a plane out to Brussels.  When he was all done getting rebooked over the phone, the line from the place to see the gate agent hadn’t moved.  Hopefully the other passengers found their way out of O’Hare.  Because of the delay, he would be about 8 hours late, and he’d have to book another EasyJet flight from Brussels to Berlin (boo on EasyJet for not having a better “missed flight” policy). This travel snag meant that I would have to spend the first day and a half by myself in Berlin, which it turned out was super easy.

    Lufthansa flight, main cabin middle seat

    The first challenge was to actually get to Berlin.  I had booked a travel reward ticket on Lufthansa from Dublin to Berlin, using my OnePass miles.  Unfortunately, I couldn’t pick my seats ahead of time on Continental’s Web site, so by the time I checked in, I was stuck in a middle seat near the front of the main cabin.  Fine by me, since I hardly take any room, and de-boarding would be relatively fast.  The Lufthansa seat was not too bad for a flight that was less than two hours.  My connection to Berlin was through Frankfurt.  If anyone has every been to the Frankfurt Airport, you will agree that it’s a bit of a zoo (and it’s huge!).  I had a two hour layover, but with all the lines – immigration, security – and terminal change from B to A, I made it to my gate with 15 minutes to spare.  Luckily, the outbound flight was late. I did break out into a bit of a sweat.

    We landed in Berlin’s Tegel Airport at around 6pm.  Right next to the gate, I was surprised to see, was the baggage claim.  And adjacent to the baggage claim was the exit into the terminal.  From how close everything felt, the airport seemed smaller than it actually is.  A few weeks earlier, I had booked a room through Orbitz for two nights at the Citadines Kurfürstendamm Hotel in Berlin for about $108.  The reviews were relatively good, and people wrote about how easy it was to get from Tegel to the hotel and from the hotel to anywhere else in Berlin.  I thought the price for two nights was a bargain for Berlin.  For the most part, reviewers were right.  I could have paid about 30 Euro (or $39) for a cab to the hotel, but instead I chose to take public transport, Bus #109 for 2.30 Euro (or $3), to the Citadines.  There are signs everywhere in the terminal for where to catch the bus.  Bus #109 would take me to the Olivaer Platz bus stop in the heart of Kurfürstendamm (or Ku-damm), the glitzy and expensive shopping district of Berlin.  From the Olivaer Platz stop – walking south – the hotel is about three blocks away.

    Citadines Kurdtendamm Berlin Hotel Room with Kitchen

    The hotel receptionist was waiting for me and knew my name, since I was the last new person to check in.  The hotel has a small lobby with computers for hotel guests to use as well as an area where breakfast is served.  The hotel receptionist informed me about the Kaiser supermarket across the street if I wanted to get anything to cook as the room had a kitchen ( (be sure to take a tote bag or else get ready to pay 30 cents for a plastic bag).  I decided for that option, but I wanted to take a stroll around Kurfürstendamm before I settled in for dinner.

    Citadines Kurfürstendamm Berlin Hotel Room

    My room was an average-sized room, with a work desk and a double sofa bed.  My room had a view of the supermarket and the other buildings across the front of hotel.  There is Wi-Fi at the hotel, but only in the lobby.  The room, however, had Internet connectivity through an ethernet cable, which was too short to take your laptop to the bed.  This was a bit frustrating for me, since I generally prefer working online in bed.  In theory you could bring your own long ethernet cord if you decide to book a room at the Citadines.  I, however, decided to make my own Wi-Fi connection, using my Macbook Pro as my hotspot (there are countless Web sites detailing how you can do this).  This enabled me to use my iPhone to surf the Web, listen to music, check e-mail, blog, etc.  When Andreas arrived the following day, I would use his laptop to work from bed.

    The room was perfectly fine, and I would recommend the hotel to folks who want (a) an easy commute on public transport from Tegel to the hotel and (b) aren’t afraid to take public transport, either the bus or the subway, from the Kurfürstendamm area to other parts of Berlin.  The Kurfürstendamm area is actually a lovely area.  For those that need their daily Starbucks fix, there’s one about four short blocks away. If you plan to spend all your money shopping the boutique stores along Ku-damm, then you might want to book a room at the hotel since it is remarkably affordable for Berlin.

    I stay at a lot of hotels, and most of the time I’m perfectly fine with whatever I get, as long as there’s nothing flagrant about the room.  The kitchen in the room was a nice addition, especially for those folks who want to save some money on meals.  I used the kitchen on the first night to cook a pizza that I bought from the supermarket across the street; I didn’t want to explore the foodie scene in Berlin without Andreas.  The in-room refrigerator also came in handy.  My biggest complaint was what looked like a massive wine stain on the floor in front of the windows (I stayed in Room 318).  I couldn’t get over how large the stain was, and I hoped it wasn’t anything more serious than a wine stain.  I had to cover the stain with a plastic bag since the sight of it was a tad disconcerting.  Otherwise, I’d stay at the Citadines again, but would request a different room,  if I ever went back to Berlin.

    More photos from my stroll around Ku-damm to come.

    All photos taken with Instagram.


      Holiday Inn Express Dublin Airport

      Holiday Inn Express Dublin Airport

      My flight to Dublin arrived early, around 8am.  It took about 30 minutes to get through immigration, and another 30 minutes until the free airport shuttle to Holiday Inn Express Dublin Airport hotel arrived.  Surprisingly, I was the only person on the bus, which was fine by me.

      Work area and love seat in Holiday Inn Express Dublin Airport hotel room

      The Holiday Inn Express Dublin Airport is a quick 10 to 15 minute shuttle bus drive away from the airport. I chose the hotel primarily because of its close proximity to the airport, since my flight out to Berlin was the following morning.  My room rate was a fantastically low 50 Euro or $65 a night.  You couldn’t ask for a better combination.

      My bed

      I had some worry that I would not be able to check into the hotel at such an early hour.  But I think I had a couple things working for me.  I arrived on Friday morning, not a busy day for business travelers.  I am also a Priority Club member, which I think helped to establish me as a loyal customer.  I was also very polite to the hotel reception person and asked very kindly  if she could put me in any room possible.  She was very nice back and put me in a room on the top floor.  By 10:30am, I was snoozing on a very comfortable bed in my modern and very IKEA-esque room.

      The sink (my room didn't have a tub)

      Clothes rack and shelves

      Five hours later, I woke up.  I could have slept through until the next day, but I had work that I needed to do. I was also getting hungry.  When I checked-in, the woman at the reception had informed me that there were two food options in the Crowne Plaza Hotel, which is next door to the Holiday Inn Express.  The Holiday Inn Express has a lovely contemporary lobby with a lounge area and bar.  The hotel also has a dining space for breakfast, though it doesn’t have a dinner service. Because I hadn’t planned to go to the city center, I was fine eating next door.

      Crowne Plaza Hotel Lobby / Lobby Seating for Cinnebar

      The Crowne Plaza Hotel houses two food options: Cinnebar and Touzai Restaurant.  At around 6:30pm, I walked the short distance to the Crowne Plaza for dinner. I decided to eat at Cinnebar and sit in the lobby seating area since Touzai seemed a bit too fancy for me.  I ordered myself a Green Chicken Curry dish, about 12 Euro, which hit the spot.  It was delicious.

      The Green Chicken Curry at Cinnebar

      Stuffed and feeling sleepy again, I went back to my hotel room after dinner and fell asleep.  If I had one complaint about the hotel, it’s that the walls are very thin.  Even with earplugs, I heard my hotel neighbors having very loud sex, but luckily I was too full and tired for it to interrupt me from sleep.   I woke very early the next day, about two hours before breakfast in the lobby was going to open at 6:30am.

      Irish breakfast

      The breakfast spread was quite good, with just about everything you’d want out for breakfast.  I especially liked the chocolate-filled croissants.

      Overall, my experience at the Holiday Inn Express Dublin Airport was a positive one.  I liked the size of my room; the bed was comfortable, and the free Internet was just perfect.  The folks working the reception desk were just great.  I am very thankful that a room was ready for me at such an early hour.  I would have been a very cranky traveler if I had to kill 3 or 4 hours before I could check in.  If you are looking for a very convenient airport hotel in Dublin, I recommend the Holiday Inn Express!

      About 10:30am, I caught the shuttle to the airport for my Lufthansa flight to Berlin.  Ah, Berlin.  I love Berlin.

      All images taken with Instagram.


        A Questionable ‘Choice Seat’ on US Airways to Dublin and a Few Other Thoughts

        Now that I’m finally settled in the German countryside visiting my partner’s German parents for the next several days or so, I can finally get around to blogging about the last week of traveling, which officially began my holiday travel.  The lovely part about my day job as a teacher is the time-off I get over the various holidays and breaks.  Nothing beats the month off I get for the Christmas holidays – I give you permission to hate me, since I would hate myself if I wasn’t in my current situation.  But in all honesty, the first week of the break is often devoted to grading the pile of essays and final exams, which can be a bit of a drain, especially when Dublin or Berlin is waiting outside of your hotel door.  But with focused attention and perseverance, I managed to not only finish my stack of grading, but I actually found quality time to enjoy the various places I’ve had a chance to visit over the past few days.

        Choice Seat on US Airways to Dublin

        So to recap a bit.  My first official holiday travel day was a flight with US Airways from Chicago to Dublin via Philadelphia.  It was questionable whether I was actually going to go to Europe over the holidays for the longest time, but sometime in November I spotted a roundtrip fare on US Airways for $580 for dates that coincided perfectly with my partner’s holiday travel to Germany.  I was prepared to fly to anywhere in Europe, as long as the price was good. The flight that I spotted was to Dublin.  I couldn’t pass it up.  From Dublin, I used 12,500 Continental Onepass miles to Berlin (via Frankfurt) on Lufthansa, which would leave a day after I arrived in Dublin.  I had never been to Berlin, and the flight from Dublin fit my schedule well.  I’ve often found that flights to Berlin are weirdly expensive – even budget flights – a reason that I opted to use my miles.  For the day I wanted to fly out from Dublin, I could not find a reasonably priced  fare to get to Berlin .

        US Airways Dinner

        US Airways Dinner

        I decided a few days before my departure to Dublin to pay $35 for a “Choice Seat.”  I did so primarily because the seat that I originally had was in the back of the plane, and all other available seats were middle seats.  Selecting the Choice Seat option gets you into “Zone 2″ (early boarding) and faster de-boarding.  You might even have the option of an exit seat or a bulkhead seat, which would get you extra leg room.  I chose a window Choice Seat a row behind one of the exits (which happened to be the door used to board the plane).  If anyone has ever been seated in the back of the plane on an international flight (or any flight for that matter), getting off the plane is just a nightmare.  Being able to get off even before the first/business class passengers was a huge treat once we landed in Dublin, don’t get me wrong; but the choice seats, in my opinion, should all come with a bit more legroom (especially for the premium price you are paying).  I’m usually ok sitting in coach since I don’t take up too much space, but the seat on my US Airways flight was ridiculously small.  For a moment the woman sitting in the aisle and I thought our middle seat would be empty, but at the very last minute it was taken by a displaced passenger whose original seat was mysteriously taken by a man who couldn’t or didn’t want to show his boarding ticket to the flight attendants asking him for it … an air marshall, perhaps?  So ok, it couldn’t get any worse than feeling like a sardine whilst flying.  Au contraire!  What’s worse than cramped seats?  A screaming baby who wouldn’t stop crying for the whole 6 hour flight sitting right behind me!  Not only was this child screaming, he was kicking my seat and hitting my head with his tiny hands, all the while his parents looked on with passivity.  Oy.  It wasn’t my lucky day.

        A few other thoughts about the flight: I hate being “that” nitpicker of a traveler, who we all roll our eyes at whenever s/he finds the most minuscule of faults. I hate that person, I do. I find the scathing reviews on sites like Trip Advisor mostly annoying and often not trustworthy.  Though when things are just so blatantly curious or wrong and potentially easily remedied through some sort of workflow change or reallocation of attention and values, I don’t have a problem pointing things out on this blog. I ultimately hope that someone might be listening.  So I am going to send this out to the Universe: When did aesthetics and presentation disappear from American travel?  Have we all just gotten inured to lousy presentation of meals on flights or tired-and dowdy-looking flight attendants?  That might sound harsh, but honestly as ambassadors of sorts for the United States and US Airways, there’s got to be something to be said about looking the part!  This, of course, extends to other airlines in the United States.  I flew a Lufthansa flight in coach the following day, and was floored by the remarkable difference of the personel and the interior of the cabin: (a) uniforms of flight attendants are designed well, and they looked good on the flight attendents; (b) the flight attendants who ranged from 20-ish to 50-ish looked fresh, put together, hair and make-up styled just right; (c) even the in-flight magazine plastic packaging had some sort of aesthetic logic in their presentation; (d) and the color palette of the interior worked very well.  An investment in seating space, in-flight amenities (video screens on the back of the seat for international flights, please!), or even an investment in lighting and color choices  might actually make travelers feel better and respond less persnickety (here, I think Virgin America has gotten it right).

        Holiday Inn Express and Crowne Hotel Shuttle

        Boy was I ready to leave that plane after we landed in very cold  and frosty Dublin!  I’ve been to Dublin several times before, and I absolutely love it for how easy it is to navigate the city and the surrounding areas.  US Airways is in Terminal 2 of the Dublin Airport.  It took about 30 minutes to get through immigrations since another flights from the U.S. had arrived before us.  But once through immigration, it is quite easy to make your way to buses that will take you the city center: Aircoach or the Dublin Bus #747 are the two that I recommend.   This time, however, I had a reservation at the Holiday Inn Express Dublin Airport for the night.  The Holiday Inn Express provides a free shuttle service every half hour before 11am and on the hour afterwards.  I had wanted to spend the day in the city, but the crying and disruptive baby behind me did not let me sleep during the whole flight.

        Luckily the hotel had a room for me ready when I arrived at 9am, for which I was immensely thankful.

        All photos were taken using Instagram.


          A Mattress Run for a Free Starwood Hotel Night

          A little over a week ago I received a targeted e-mail from Starwood Preferred Guest with a pretty enticing offer.  I’ve been a little late to the game with hotel points collecting in 2011, since I basically started to direct a lot of attention to it only a few months ago.  My hotel strategy before had been to use Priceline or Hotwire for last minute deals, but I realized over the summer that I was missing out especially because I was basically staying at a hotel every weekend.  Up to that point I only had two Starwood stays at the aLoft Hotel in Portland that earned me points.  The targeted promotion called “Bonus Beginnings” from Starwood was “to inspire me to return” to any of the Starwood-branded hotels.  After one eligible stay, I had the option of:

          1. Earning 3,000 bonus Starpoints.
          2. Free Weekend Night in a standard room at any Category 1–5 hotel.

          I don’t know why anyone would choose the first option, since the second one clearly seemed to be the better of the two.  It was the option for which I registered.  There was a very reasonable rate  of $74 (before taxes) at Four Points by Sheraton Chicago O’Hare Airport for the day that I arrived in Chicago a few days ago.  A special shout out to the hotel for accommodating the cancellation of my flight, which brought me into Chicago a day after I was supposed to arrive.  The hotel shifted my reservation without any hassle or additional cost.

          Four Points by Sheraton Chicago O'Hare Airport

          The plan then was for Andreas to pick me up and for both us to check into the hotel and then head home – from home, I would check out the following day with a phone call.  Easy enough.  My “stay” would get me points and also fulfill the requirements for the free weekend night bonus.  Instead of our original plan, we decided to hang out a bit in the hotel and order room service since we both hadn’t eaten lunch yet.  Two bacon cheese burgers, with fries, and sodas set us back $35 – whoa!  The hotel room itself was so-so.  I’m partial to rooms with large, flat-screen TVs, which this room had.  Asides from that, there wasn’t anything mind blowing about the room.  We were a bit upset that the room didn’t have a room service menu in it, and one never came when we put in a request.  So we just ordered burgers thinking that they’d have it on the menu – a menu that we didn’t have.  We were right, of course.  If you need an airport hotel for an early flight out of Chicago, this hotel might be for you.

          Four Points Bathroom Products

          Since Andreas had to return the Zipcar, we decided to check out the same day instead of doing so a day later.  Also I figured people checked out on the same day all the time, especially if someone had an uber -long layover and didn’t want to hang out at O’Hare. The women at the front desk looked at us a bit strangely, however, like we were there for something a bit more salacious than what had actually happened.  But really, we were just there for the free night bonus!

          This promotion is particularly awesome for me because of my trip to Europe in a few days, which will take me throughout Germany, the Netherlands, Ireland, and the United Kingdom.  I want to use the free night earned from this promotion to stay at the only Category 5 hotel in London – The Park Lane Hotel.  More on the results of this mattress run, hopefully soon.

          Images taken with Instagram.


            Best of 2011: Hotel Wailea on Maui

            As the year winds to a close, it’s time for me to start thinking about the Best of 2011.  Much like a year ago, 2011 for me has been full of travel near and far, and full of great experiences all around.

            So with that, the first Best of 2011 would have to be getting to stay at the very chic and amazing Hotel Wailea on the island of Maui.  Andreas and I found our way to Maui early in 2011 to celebrate my birthday.  Before we left, we had spotted a fantastic deal on Jetsetter to stay at the Hotel Wailea, so we jumped on it.  We could not have asked for a better place to stay!

            View from the Hotel Wailea on Maui from our Suite

            From check-in to check-out, the staff was mind-blowingly attentive and considerate to all our needs.  We had tried to check-in a few hours early, but our room was not ready.  We were given, however, open access to all  the amenities of the hotel.  We were told that we could leave our luggage with the front desk, and when our room was ready, we were assured that our bags would be waiting for us in our suite.  We opted for the latter, since we wanted to hit the beaches.

            Once we returned from our beach excursion, our suite was ready for us.  Our suite was in a bungalow-type building, which had four suits altogether on two levels.  Ours was on the higher level, fortunately.  We were stunned by how roomy the suite was.  It felt like a 1-bedroom condo, complete with kitchen, living room area, a spa-like bathroom, and a fairly large bedroom.  The bed was heavenly.  The main reason why we loved the Hotel Wailea so much was the spectacular panoramic view of the Pacific Ocean from our suite.

            Another view from our Suite at the Hotel Waliea on Maui

            We kept our patio door open for most of the time there, since we couldn’t get enough of the view from sunrise to sunset.  The hotel grounds are sprawling and is located high on a gentle slope.  Bungalows dot the grounds, with roomy spacing and pathways  in between the buildings.  We were lucky to be  higher on the hill, as our view looked over the bungalows on the lower side. If anyone has ever been to Maui, you know how touristy and crowded the hotels nearer the beach can get.  We, in fact, had lunch at the Grand Wailea Resort, which is at the bottom of the hill on the beach, and couldn’t believe how jam-packed with people the hotel grounds were – the pools were at full capacity!  The Hotel Wailea, however, felt very private and luxurious.  We sat at the pool and felt very relaxed not to have to compete for a nice spot near the pool or to see throngs of people. While we mostly ate out while we were in Maui, we did try the hotel restaurant called Capische? for noshes and cocktails, which was a bit pricey (what isn’t in Maui?) but very good.

            The obvious downside of the hotel is that you need to walk a ways or drive to get to the beaches at the bottom of the hill.  This was not a problem for us since we wanted to find beaches that were away from the tourists. To get to those beaches, a car was necessary.

            But overall, if you are looking for a restful hotel experience, away from the tourists, and want spectacular views and top-notch service and pampering, then I recommend you check out the Hotel Wailea.  We could not have asked for a better way to start 2011.


              1,500 Hyatt Gold Passport Bonus

              As I was searching for Seattle hotels for tonight, I happened upon a really nice offer from Hyatt.  At 50 participating Hyatt Summerfield Suites, AVIA, and Hotel Sierra properties, you can earn a 1,500 Hyatt Gold Passport Bonus:

              Stay between November 22, 2011, and January 8, 2012, and receive 1,500 Hyatt Gold Passport bonus points per stay. Simply request Offer Code 1500GP at time of booking (more information).

              I was going to stay at the Hotel Sierra in Bellevue tonight, but decided against it for a hotel closer to the airport since I have an early flight. Too bad I will be out of the country for the duration of the promo.


                24 Hours In Denver

                After a very pleasant and short 2 hour flight from Seattle, I arrived in Denver.   Being a USAA member has definitely got its perks, especially with rental cars.  I rarely rent a car without using my USAA rental car benefits.  The insurance coverage that comes with the USAA benefits is really generous and gives me extra peace of mind whenever I rent from Hertz.  Thanks Dad for being in the military!

                My first hotel was a bit away from downtown Denver.  For this quick trip, my plan was to be as frugal as I could and still be able to see and do fun things.  So my first hotel was the Hilton Garden Inn in Englewood, about 20 miles south of downtown Denver.  For about $60, the hotel was perfect.  Because I arrived so late, this was essentially just a place to sleep.  All of my activities would be the following day.

                Elephant at the Hilton Garden Inn in Englewood

                After a very fast check-in, I was greeted by a lovely elephant on my bed.  I thought the gesture was nice.  There wasn’t anything extraordinary about the room, but aesthetically it felt nice and modern (unlike my next hotel).  My bed was stiff, which was frustrating, and I couldn’t figure out how to make it softer – there’s supposed to be a way.  I got very little sleep.  Not to be too grumpy about things, especially while I travel, I try to seek out at least one redeeming thing about staying at a hotel or flying.  I truly appreciated the Neutrogena bathroom products.  And most of all, I thought the hotel staff at the front desk were great!

                Neutrogena Products

                I awoke a bit late – I do like to snooze – and needed a late check-out, which I was enthusiastically given.  I find that when asking for a late check-out, I’ve gotten positive results when stating directly my desired time to check out.  So I asked for a 1pm check-out and got it without having to haggle.  My next hotel was closer to downtown Denver – the Holiday Inn Denver Central – which cost about $50.  I must say, this Holiday Inn looked and felt a bit dated.  It was also in an odd part of Denver, surrounded by what seemed like an industrial park.  It’s interesting what vastly different hotels you can get for $50.  Because my trip to Denver was so short, I didn’t really care so much that the Holiday Inn felt a little like motel.  The staff, however, at the front desk was very friendly.  I dropped my bags off in my room, and I was on my way to explore downtown.

                Denver State Capitol Building

                Denver in December is cold, cold, cold, probably not the most ideal time to visit.    I found a paid parking lot right across the street from the Hyatt Regency Hotel that was empty (15th and California).  Because it was Sunday, I paid $10 for the whole day.  Not bad.

                Clyfford Sill Museum

                My first destination was the Clyfford Still Museum (250 Bannock Street, $10 adults/$6 students/$3 youth). Truth be told, even though my trip to Denver was a mileage run, going to the Clyfford Still Museum was a special bonus.  Clyfford Still was one of the leading figures of the abstract expressionism movement (think Pollack, Rothko, de Kooning), who, as I described to one of my friends, was essentially a hoarder of his own artwork who disavowed the art world and retreated to spend his last of his years in Maryland painting … more or less.

                Clyfford Still painting

                The museum, which is right next to the Denver Art Museum, recently opened in November and will exhibit a rotating selection of his paintings and works on paper.  For anyone visiting Denver, this museum is a must see.  Still’s paintings are brilliant in their large scale, some taking up whole walls, while others are bold in the contrast of colors and application of paint, and all express a range of emotions.  Because Still essentially quit the art world at the height of the abstract expressionist movement and hoarded his work, many of the pieces at the museum have never been exhibited before, which in itself is exciting for art appreciators and scholars alike.

                Exploring downtown Denver by foot is probably the best in warmer weather, but on 15 degree days, seek out other ways like the great public transport that Denver has.  Downtown has an awesome mall bus that goes up and down the 16th Street, the main thoroughfare.  The bus stops at every block and is FREE. In sub-zero weather, the mall bus is your very best friend, since it’s heated.  I recommend walking (in warmer weather) or busing up 16th Street especially if you are a shopper.  Most of the standard “mall” stores can be found on 16th Street.  I happened upon an H&M store and popped in for some retail therapy (and warmth).

                JAX Happy Hour Menu

                Ten years ago a friend who lived in Boulder introduced me to JAX Fish House (1539 17th Street) in the LoDo district of  Denver.  I’ve had fond memories of the place ever since, especially of the oysters.  We must have ordered at least 3 dozen oysters that day.  I was pleased to discover that JAX was still in Denver, and even more pleased that they still had the $1 oysters for their happy hour (4-6pm daily).  You read right – $1 oysters.

                Oysters from JAX Fish House

                The menu had other delectable goodies, but I was there for the oysters and a pint of beer. And boy was I completely satisfied !  If you are in town, I recommend the happy hour at JAX.

                Denver Union Station

                After downing about a dozen oysters and a pint of Full Sail Amber, I took a short stroll to see the Christmas lights at Union Station.  So pretty.

                Tattered Cover Book Store

                My next destination was the Tattered Cover Book Store (1628 16th St.), which is about a block away from Union Station.  On my travels I try hard to find the local bookstores.  Tattered Cover is huge, with books on two levels.  What I love about the store is the size of the space – it doesn’t feel cramped.  It feels like what a bookstore should feel like – inviting and warm.  What’s also great is that the store houses new books, but also a large stock of used and bargain books.  It would hard to leave empty handed.   I found a couple of bargain books on design that caught my eye and that I bought.

                After my trip to the bookstore, I called it a day.

                Even though I started the day a bit late, I still managed to eat, drink, shop, and appreciate fantastic art!  I’m sure I’ll return and hopefully spend more time exploring the many gems that Denver has to offer.

                All photos taken with Instagram.


                  Now Might Be a Good Time to Purchase Points and Miles

                  With 2011 coming to a close, it might be a good time to consider buying frequent flier miles or hotel reward points to top up your accounts, especially if you are nearing some worthwhile goals.  I say this because several reward programs are offering tempting premiums on miles/points purchases.

                  Here are a few that are worth thinking about:

                  Airlines

                  AAdvantage Miles – American Airlines

                  Between now and December 31, 2011, when you buy the AAdvantage® miles you need to book your travel now, you’ll earn a special bonus — for every 6,000 miles you purchase, you’ll earn 2,000 bonus miles, up to 20,000 bonus miles!

                  Alaska Airlines

                  Get up to 16,000 Bonus miles!
                  Buy miles from November 1 – December 31, 2011 and receive 4,000 Bonus miles for every 10,000 miles purchased. For example, buy 20,000 miles and get 8,000 extra!

                  US Airways Dividend Miles

                  Get a 100% Bonus – That’s DOUBLE miles!
                  Buy miles between December 1 and December 31, 2011 and get DOUBLE the number of miles up to 40,000 miles. For example, buy 10,000 miles and you will receive 20,000!

                  Delta Skymiles

                  75% Mileage bonus from now until December 22, 2011 – up to 45,000 mileage bonus.

                  Virgin American Elevate Miles

                  Limited Time Bonus Offer: Buy Elevate Points, get an Extra 100% until December 20, 2011.

                  Hotel

                  Starwood Preferred Guest (accounts must be at least 30 days old)

                  Limited time offer – Save 20%
                  Top up your account for less! Buy Starpoints between November 1 and December 31, 2011 and receive 20% off the regular price.


                    Sleep Number Says “What”?

                    The most interesting thing about my recent stay at the Radisson Hotel at the Seattle Airport would be the king-sized Sleep Number Bed, which, honestly, I didn’t quite get. I found myself pushing the buttons, but couldn’t figure out if all my button-pushing was doing anything to the bed.  At any rate,  I’m  hoping that my stay gets me 50,000 Club Carlson points as part of the Radisson Big Night Giveaway promotional – there’s still time to take advantage of it!

                    You might want to consider the 30% off promotional at a Club Carlson hotel to take advantage of the Big Night Giveaway.  You must stay at one of the Club Carlson hotel between December 23, 2011 and March 3, 2012, using the discount code: 30PCTOFF.  Book by December 13, 2011.

                     


                      Earn Platinum Status on Accor Hotels A / Club for Free

                      A | Club Platinum Membership

                      I just registered for membership on Accor Hotels A|Club and got platinum status immediately.  This is a pretty great deal, given that it generally takes ”60 nights or 25,000 A|Club points” to earn platinum.

                      Accor Hotel brands include: Sofitel Hotels, Pullman Hotels, Novotel Hotels, Ibis Hotels and others.

                      Here’s what you get with platinum:

                      100% A|Club points bonus for every stay
                      Exclusive benefits at Sofitel*, Pullman and MGallery hotels.
                      - Welcome drink and gift
                      - Room upgrade**
                      - Late check-out up to 4:00 pm**
                      - A room always available if you reserve at least 3 days before your arrival.
                      - A Thalassa sea/spa Institute beauty and treatment product when you stay at Sofitel Thalassa sea/ spa
                      - A welcome gift for any stay of 10 nights or more at Adagio, plus late check-out**
                      - Dedicated customer service

                      * Except Thalassa sea/spa
                      ** upon request, and subject to availability

                      Follow this link to register for your platinum membership. The page will be in German, so be sure to change the language on the upper-right to English.

                      (via 24Yukon24 on Flyertalk)


                        Cyber Monday Travel Deals, Earning Miles, and More

                        Andreas and I are eagerly awaiting the online deals rolling out tomorrow as part of Cyber Monday.   We have a bevy of travel bookings already scheduled for the upcoming year, with key parts of the itineraries that still need to be filled.  We rarely buy package deals, instead opt to get flights, lodgings, and car rentals separately to get the best and most worthy of deals possible.

                        We are very intrigued by the Jetsetter Cyber Monday flash sales, starting from 9am through 9pm.  One deal an hour, 12 deals total.  We’ve booked through Jetsetter a few times (Plumpjack in Squaw Valley; Hampton Hotel in Dublin; and Hotel Wailea in Maui) and have been relatively pleased.

                        We’re also checking out the Viceroy Hotel Group Cyber Monday  sales, with deals up to 45% off.

                        “Like” one of our hotels on Facebook to be the first to save. We will release the booking code on our Facebook pages on Sunday, November 27 – a day earlier than everyone else.

                        Starwood Hotels has a convenient Cyber Monday site with deals up to 35% off at participating hotels when booked by December 2, 2011.

                        Amazon ranked at the top of Black Friday shoppers.  Lucky for us, there are still deals to be had!  Be sure to check out the Amazon Cyber Monday deals.  Remember:

                        $1 spent on Amazon = 1 mile on Hawaiian Airlines [Note: you must use the Hawaiian Miles eMarket shopping portal to earn miles]

                        Also …

                        $1 spent on Shoebuy = 9.5 miles on Hawaiian
                        $1 spent on J. Crew = 5 miles on Hawaiian
                        $1 spent on Red Envelope = 5 miles on Hawaiian
                        $1 spent on Design Within Reach = 3 miles on Hawaiian
                        $1 spent on Gap = 2.5 miles on Hawaiian
                        $1 spent on West Elm = 2 miles on Hawaiian

                        You can always transfer your Hawaiian miles to Hilton points at 1 mile to 2 points.

                        If you’d rather not earn miles on Hawaiian Airlines, there are always other shopping portals connected to other airline frequent flier programs.  For example, we will also be checking out the Mileage Plus shopping portal connected to United’s Mileage Plus program.  Here’s a sampling of what you could earn:

                        $1 spent on Drugstore.com = 6 miles on United
                        $1 spent on eBags.com = 5 miles on United
                        $1 spent on Groupon =  4 miles on United

                        Every holiday season I find myself doing most of my shopping online.  Tis the season to rake in frequent flier miles!  I’ve made it a habit to use the shopping portals of frequent flier programs, which has garnered a nice pot of miles for me.  And so should you.

                        Lastly, I will be taking advantage of Gogo Jetpacks for online inflight access.  Gogo is offerring two holiday packages:

                        • Reindeer 2-Pack: Two 24 hour Gogo passes, valid from December 22, 2011 through January 3, 2012, for $14.95
                        • Holiday 3-Pack: Three Gogo Flight passes, valid from November 19, 2011 through January 3, 2012, for $19.95

                        I’m going for the 3-pack deal! Having used Gogo’s inflight Internet on Alaska Airlines flights, I must say it’s quite nice to have Internet access during the flight.  This promotional is a welcome bargain.

                         


                          Radisson Big Night Giveaway Might Get You 50,000 Club Carlson Points

                          Today I just registered for Club Carlson‘s 50,000 gold points promotional: Radisson Big Night Giveaway.  Club Carlson (formerly Radisson GoldPoints Plus) is the loyalty reward club for Radisson-branded hotels.  I’ve never been brand loyal to Radisson hotels, but this promotional might change that for me … in fact, it’s really a hard promotional to pass up.  The rules are fairly straight forward.  The first 50,000 people to register for the promotional will get 50,000 gold points after

                          one Qualifying Stay at any participating Radisson or Radisson Blu hotel in the United States, Canada, or the Caribbean.

                          Stays must occur between November 10 and December 30, 2011.  Folks who aren’t a part of the first 50,000 registrants will still get 15,000 gold points after the qualifying stay.

                          So, I registered.  I booked my qualifying stay at the Radisson Hotel Seattle Airport, getting a pretty mediocre rate of $114 using a AAA discount of 15% off.  Word on the message boards on Flyertalk is that the promotional has not achieved the 50,000 registration threshold, so I’m hoping this stay gets me the 50,000 gold points.

                          This promotional is particularly interesting to me since I just discovered that the art’otel berlin city center west, by park plaza in Berlin is part of Club Carlson.  The art’otel is a modern art-themed hotel featuring artwork by Andy Warhol.  I’ve been looking into booking a room at the hotel for my upcoming trip to Berlin after Jetsetter ran a flash sale for the hotel a few weeks ago.  I missed the flash sale, though I’ve found cheaper rates on other sites.  Redeeming a standard award room at the art’otel using points would set me back 38,000 points, and for a premium award room: 57,000 points.

                          It is unlikely that the gold points that I earn will deposit into my account before my travels to Germany.  But it’s good to know for my future travels to Berlin.

                          Club Carlson is also running another promotional that gets you 9,000 gold points after each award stay booking between December 1 and January 31, 2012.

                          Also for those who have yet to register as a Club Carlson member, you can earn 2,000 gold points on your next stay after you register.

                          These are pretty attractive deals especially since 9,000 gold points gets you a free night at a category 1 hotel and 50,000 gold points gets you a free night at a category 6 hotel.  There are other redemption options in between.  Get your points!

                          ** Update **

                          My 50,000 points posted about four days after my hotel stay!  What a fantastic promotion.  I hope we see it again!  Thanks Club Carlson!


                            Gay Hotels Are Here and Queer, Hurrah!

                            <Axel Hotel - San Telmo, Buenos Aires>

                            Gay hotels are here and are queer, get used to it!  According to BBC Travel, gay hotels are popping up in many cities with thriving gay communities: Berlin, NYC, Miami (among others).

                            Just as gay-friendly clubs, cruises and tours have seen an upswing in the last few years, several new high-end properties are hoping to find success in cities like Miami, Berlin, New York and Provincetown, Rhode Island, where thriving gay scenes cater to like-minded travellers. The banquet hall has been replaced by a yacht for commitment ceremonies, free wi-fi has morphed into an inter-hotel social network, and the lobby bars that made boutique hotels so appealing in the first place now offer drag nights. (Source)

                            Axel Hotels, for example, has locations in Barcelona, Berlin, and Buenos Aires. Other hotels featured in the article: Royal Palms Resort & Spa (Fort Lauderdale), Lords South Beach (Miami), The Brass Key (Provincetown).

                            I think this is exciting news, especially because a lot of the hotels featured look absolutely modern and stunning.  These hotels definitely have a refined and affluent gay clientele in mind.  I am bummed that I didn’t get to experience the Axel Hotel in Buenos Aires while I was there last summer, but I stayed at an equally lovely and gay-friendly hotel while I was there that I highly recommend: The Rendez-Vous Hotel.


                              Finding Hotel Deals Near PDX Aiport // Hello aLoft and Hotwire!

                              aLoft Room in PDX

                              Portland has become somewhat of a second home to me … not a bad second home, if I do say.  I love the drive on I-84 along the Columbia Gorge, and highly recommend it to anyone, especially on sunny Spring days like today.  I’ve all but given up on staying “Downtown” when I’m in Portland, in large part because hotel deals abound in and around PDX airport.  Downtown is a quick 15 minutes from the airport area, so it’s not like I really have to be there to get the most of what it has to offer.  I’d rather save $40 to $50 a night on a room near the airport, and use that savings on a fantastic meal at a nice restaurant (and there are many nice foodie places here, for sure).

                              It used to be that I would bid for a hotel room on Priceline for a hotel room near the PDX airport, and more often than not, my bid (between $35-$40 at 3 stars) would be accepted.  Invariably I would win a room at the Holiday Inn Portland Airport.  Andreas and I would joke that the Holiday Inn was our home-away-from-home.  If you want a bargain room near the hotel at a somewhat depressing hotel, this is the place for you.  I have a theory on why the hotel is rated as a 3-star hotel.  It has an indoor pool and a restaurant. I’d actually rate it lower.  So a couple of months ago, I said enough with Priceline.  I couldn’t stand to stay at the Holiday Inn anymore.  So I upgraded my search to Hotwire.

                              Hotwire is a really funny hotel engine.  Andreas and I use it often and sometimes really disagree with the star rating on Hotwire.  We’ve also been really happy with some of the hotel rooms we’ve gotten.  I’ve used Hotwire three or four times for hotel rooms near Portland, specifically in the Cascade Station area, and have gotten very nice rooms (the hotels in the Cascade Station area are generally newer and nicer, I think).  I’ve stayed at the Embassy Suites and Sheraton, both 3 1/2 stars … the former, in my opinion, a lot better than the latter, especially for business travelers.

                              But the best hotel deals for PDX-Cascade Station are the 3 star offers.  Pay attention to the percentage of people recommending the hotel.  I have gotten the aLoft twice and the Hyatt Place once, both 3 stars and both 100% recommended.  My rooms were priced at $56, about $69 with tax.  Not a bad deal, considering non-Hotwire rates are usually over $100.  The aLoft room that I’m staying in tonight was bought off Hotwire.

                              Between aLoft and Hyatt Place, I like the aLoft more (but only slightly more).  Hyatt Place has larger rooms, with separate living room area.  The gigantic flat-screen TV is very nice.  Whereas the standard double queen and king rooms at aLoft feels more loft-like are considerably smaller than the Hyatt Place rooms.  But where aLoft has Hyatt Place beat is the ambiance and aesthetic.  aLoft is all about clean lines and feels young and in the digital age.  Again, both are very nice hotels.  It pretty much boils down to a matter of taste.

                              So, I’m here at the aLoft blogging, which feels apropos.  Andreas’ flight got canceled, a major bummer (boo Alaska Airlines!), so our goal of eating Portland will have to wait tomorrow.

                               


                                Best of 2010: Soho Santiago Apart // Santiago, Chile

                                Our Apartment in Santiago, Chile - Soho Santiago Apart

                                Another city, another fantastic accidental find.  Funny what you can find on the Web with the right keywords.  We found the perfect 1-bedroom apartment through the management agency Soho Santiago Apart, near Bellas Artes, Parque Forestale  the subway station, and everything in between.  After some initial bumps – the fact that our contact at the agency did not speak any English – which we overcame with good humor and resolve, we entered the apartment and discovered a modern and very chic 1-bedroom apartment with a fully-equipped kitchen and fantastic views of the Andes – all for $75 a night.  A light breakfast, coffee, and juices were brought to our apartment every morning from the lovely folks working for the management company. And while we were away, the apartment would be cleaned much like what you expect at a hotel.  We felt perfectly fine leaving our belonging in the apartment while were gone.  The apartment even comes with a safe.

                                We will definitely rent again from Soho Santiago Apart when we’re back in Santiago.

                                View of the Bellas Artes Subway Station from Our Soho Santiago Apart Apartment


                                  Best of 2010: Apartment 51 on Cais do Sodré // Lisbon, Portugal

                                  View from Apartment #51 on Cais do Sodré in Lisbon

                                  Ah yes, Apartment #51 in Lisbon, Portugal … one of the best lodging experiences in our travels in 2010.  I remember it as our penthouse suite, near everything worth going to in the fantastic city of Lisbon. My travels to Lisbon with Andreas last March was primarily to visit a city that had been on my wish list of travel destinations for years.  So in March, we went … we ate, and we ate, and we snoozed, and we ate some more.  Apartment #51 was the perfect place to arrive to after our eating excursions.  We discovered it by accident, after scouring the Web for recommendations.  We discovered a website called Travelling to Lisbon: A Genuine Lisbon Taste, which is like a clearing house of sorts for apartments in Lisbon.  The booking process was a snap, and the price for the rental was reasonable: at the time 75 Euros per night.

                                  Interior of Apartment #51 (Source: Travelling to Lisbon)

                                  Andreas and I both had bad luck getting to Portugal: his flight was canceled, and I spaced out in Frankfurt and missed my flight (another story altogether).  Our first night at the apartment was obviously not to be, but the people at the rental agency were so understanding about our situation.  We were met by our rental agency contact at our apartment, who welcomed us warmly and advised us on were to go once we recovered from our jet-lag.  Located on Cais do Sodré, Apartment #51 quite central to everything.  I cannot stress that enough.  We had no problems walking to places from our apartment.  The apartment is two bedrooms, Wi-Fi-enabled, with a fully-stocked kitchen.  And the view … well, the photograph above says it all.  As much as we love staying at hotels, I find renting apartments in other countries the best route to go, especially if you want to feel a wee-bit more integrated in the local culture.   We loved the sloping ceilings and the balcony.

                                  If you are ever in Lisbon, you must stay in Apartment #51!

                                  Obrigado, Lisboa!


                                    Best of 2010: Seamill Farms Studio Cottage // the Big Island, Hawaii

                                    By pure luck – which is often the case when Andreas and I travel – we discovered a gem of a cottage when we visited the Big Island last May.  We were looking through the vacation rentals on Craigslist and were immediately drawn to the Seamill Farms Studio Cottage ad.  The photos of the cottage sold us!

                                    Seamill Farms Studio Cottage (Source: Seamill Farms)

                                    We were partly on the Big Island because Andreas needed to work atop Mauna Kea a few nights and partly because I needed to get away.  My semester of teaching really did a number on me, stress-wise.  I needed two things: (1) to be near the ocean and (2) to be as far away from the mainland as possible.  Andreas’ work trip to the Big Island was a fantastic way to accomplish both.  Located in South Kona, closer to Captain Cook, staying at the Seamill Farms Studio, we figured, would be a nice way to relax and to be out of the hustle-and-bustle of Kona.  And we were in luck, for the dates we wanted, the cottage was available.  For $350 a week, or $70 a night, it was a steal.  We stayed 2 weeks in total. Booking the room was a snap.  Dave and Stacey, the proprietors of the cottage, live on the property themselves, on a sprawling hillside estate with coffee plants surrounding them.  They were so fantastic to deal with and were very accommodating to our needs.   The cottage itself reminds me of a bungalow.  It is one large room with a fully equipped kitchen, and in the bedroom area is a queen-sized bed.  There is also an outdoor patio area where Andreas and I would eat breakfast and dinner.  From the patio you can see the ocean.  The cottage has a lovely carport for your rental car.   We loved going down to Pebble Beach, about a 5 minute drive from the cottage.  Pebble Beach felt like our own private beach. And at times we were the only ones down there:

                                    Being at the Seamill Farms Studio Cottage for the two weeks that we were there made our stay on the Big Island all the more memorable.  If rest and relaxation is your number one goal, then we highly recommend staying at the cottage.


                                      Turkey Day in Lake Tahoe

                                      Andreas and I decided to spend Thanksgiving in Lake Tahoe.  We dawdled a bit with the planning, since our real-world jobs were taking up so much of our time.  The night before Thanksgiving we finally spent some time looking for a place to stay.  We weren’t going to kid ourselves.  We knew that lodging rates would be high since many people surely had the same idea as us.  We thought if we couldn’t find a reasonable rate, we’d just forgo the trip and spend the turkey day at home.  We were definitely flexible.

                                      The lodging gods were definitely on our side, however.  Andreas and I checked out various travel websites on our laptops, covering all our bases.  Prices were indeed high for accommodations at 3-star places.  We discovered that searching for a two-night stay (Thursday-Saturday) at the same hotel came up with very little, as most people were probably heading to Tahoe Friday night through the weekend.  So we decided that we could possibly stay at two hotels for each of the nights.  So I searched for Thursday night, and I found a Thanksgiving sale on Travelocity at the Park Tahoe Inn – 50% off the $99 rate.  Booked!  Andreas stumbled on a fantastic deal at The Lodge at Kingsbury Crossing for Friday night on Booking.com for $76.  Booked!  Our two night stay in Tahoe totaled about $120!  A fantastic bargain, if we do say so ourselves.

                                      Both hotels are close to the hustle and bustle of the South Lake Tahoe commercial district as well as the casinos.  As I type this, Andreas and I are both at The Lodge at Kingsbury Crossing, and we  love it.  The room comes with a large living room space, a dining area, and a kitchen (we wish it included an oven for our turkey preparations, but we’ll make do).  Our bedroom is separate from the other spaces.  It feels like a condo.  And the gas fireplace adds a nice touch.  The Park Tahoe Inn is a cute motel-like hotel.  The rooms are clean, spare, but the shower is very nice (low-water pressure though).  Be forewarned: the walls are very thin.  Andreas and I both liked it as a place to crash after a night at the casinos or wandering around Lake Tahoe, but the room is very minimal.  Andreas loved the Tempurpedic bed, but I could not sleep a wink on it.  The $49 room was too hard to pass up, however.


                                        Hola Chile!


                                        Andes Mountains taken from Cerro San Cristobal in Santiago

                                        My only complaint with my departure out of Argentina would have to be the absurdly long immigration line at EZE at 5am!  A Brazilian girl ahead of me collapsed to the ground perhaps because of heat exhaustion or maybe because she partied too hard the night before.  Whatever the case, her friends huddled around her fanning their tickets at her face.  Only after about 10 minutes of this did any staff people approach the girl to see if she needed help.  Thankfully she recovered a few minutes later and got herself to her gate.  It was definitely an odd thing to witness so early in the morning.

                                        My flight to Santiago was a breeze.  The LAN flight was comfortable, and it once again reminded me how behind U.S.-based international airlines are in aesthetics and service.  After Andreas’ horrible experience flying back to the U.S. from Santiago with American Airlines, we are going to try very hard to fly LAN or something  comparable on our next trip to South America.  The early flight to Santiago provides amazing morning views of the sunrise and surreal views of the Andes.  A window seat is a must!  The ride over the Andes is a quick one, so be ready for it.


                                        Mural at the Bellas Artes Subway Station

                                        For anyone who has traveled to the Santiago airport early in the morning, you know how crazy things get given the large number of flights that arrive between 7am and 9am.  The immigration lines are insanely long, but Chileans are a bit more attuned to issues of efficiency and the lines, in my opinion, move at a good pace.  Americans will need to pay a reciprocity fee of $141 before they get into the immigration line – there is a separate line for that at the extreme left-hand side of the vast room.  Andreas and I arrived at the same time – he arrived from Dallas – and I spotted him quickly as he worked his way into the immigration line.  Seeing him was a fantastic sight after a month separated.  We were ready to do it up in Santiago, but first we had to find our way out of the airport.  Be sure to keep the immigration paper that is stamped by the immigration officer as you exit to baggage claim – you will need to return it when you depart from the airport.  We booked a ride using Taxi Oficial for CLP$15,000, or about $30USD, from the airport to the apartment we rented downtown  (there is a Taxi Oficial booth right before you exit the customs area and are released into the throng of people wanting to sell you a ride to anywhere).  There will be someone outside the door with a Taxi Oficial sign who will take you to your car.  It’s a quick ride to the city, about 20 minutes depending on traffic.


                                        Our lovely apartment managed by Santiago SOHO Apart (Miraflores 455)

                                        Before arriving to Santiago, Andreas and I reserved an apartment through Santiago SOHO Apart (Miraflores 455, close to the Bellas Artes green-line subway station).  For $75USD a night, we rented a very chic and modern furnished one-bedroom apartment, with kitchen.  Breakfast is delivered at noon daily, and a housekeeper cleans the apartment daily as well.  There is a supermarket a block away.  The room is equipped with Wi-Fi and a safe. Laundry services are inside the building.  Be prepared to speak only Spanish to the staff of Santiago SOHO Apart.  I recommend using Google Translate to help you communicate with the staff.  When we first walked into the apartment, we fell in love it with it immediately.  We had a terrific view of the wall mural at the Bellas Artes subway station from our balcony, as well as Cerro San Cristobal – the hill with the famous statue of the Virgin Mary.  We both thought the price for the apartment was definitely a steal for Santiago!

                                        We decided a nap was in order since I hadn’t slept any since the day before and neither had Andreas on his flight.  We woke up seven hours later, armed with a list of restaurant recommendations from Andreas’ friend, refreshed and ready to hit the streets.


                                          Rendez-Vous Hotel and Anuva Wines

                                          Because my flight out of Buenos Aires to Santiago, Chile, was scheduled for 6:30am – to coincide with Andreas’ arrival – I decided to spend my last night in Buenos Aires at a hotel.  I officially checked out of my lovely studio apartment on calle de Armenia that I’d grown very attached to on my last Friday in Buenos Aires and hopped into a cab for a short ride over to Palermo Hollywood.  I had reserved a room two weeks prior to my departure during a fantastic wine tasting with the Portland/Buenos Aires-based wine club Anuva Wines, which was held at the Rendez-Vous Hotel (Bonpland 1484).


                                          Anuva Wine Tasting in Buenos Aires

                                          For those unable to visit Argentina’s wine country, I highly recommend the wine tasting.  Our American host Sarah was very knowledgeable with the wines and the food-pairings.  Her breadth of information about the different regions in Argentina made me realize that another trip to Argentina is definitely in order.  The cost of the tasting for groups of 2 or more is $40USD person, which includes smart food pairings and multiple pours of each of the wines.   My favorite wine of the evening: 2005 Mairena Bonarda.


                                          Guess who? Iconic portraits in my room.

                                          I was so taken by the vibrant colors of the chic interior of the boutique hotel during the wine-tasting that I mentioned to our wine host that I was looking to spend my last night at a hotel.  She highly recommended the Rendez-Vous Hotel and walked me right over to the front desk to inquire whether a room was available.  The friendly woman at the front desk spoke perfect English and informed me that a room was available.  For $95USD, I booked myself a standard room in the 11-room boutique hotel, breakfast included.  Also offered was a 10% discount if I paid with cash (which I did).  The Rendez-Vous Hotel is also in the perfect location, in walking distance to the many amazing restaurants and shop in Palermo Hollywood and Soho.


                                          My room in the Rendez-Vous Hotel.

                                          While I was very sad to leave my apartment, I was looking forward to my last night at the Rendez-Vous Hotel.  A little pampering is always a good thing.  My room was on the third floor facing calle Bonpland.  Each of the rooms in the hotel is unique and was designed by the owner Frédéric DuBois, a former professional dancer in France and Feng-Shui expert.  The color green dominated my room, which inspired a calming vibe.  The large Victorian-inspired oval windows in the bathroom and bedroom provided the room with plenty of natural light during the day.  The room exuded a style and chic-ness without being too overwhelming.  I loved it all.

                                          I got to meet the owner Frédéric later in the day after an afternoon of shopping.  Over an afternoon cappuccino and croissants, we talked about the overwhelming creative potential of Buenos Aires.  The city is brimming with potential, and so it is exceedingly hard for locals to start businesses because cash is king in the city.  Those with cash – often foreigners – are the ones buying up real-estate and opening up restaurants and shops in neighborhoods like Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood.  Frédéric’s openness about starting his hotel and living in Buenos Aires provided interesting insights into the workings of the city, especially from the prospective of an expatriate.  He exudes creative energy that he has put to lovely use in his wonderful hotel.  Gay travelers will feel extremely comfortable in the hotel.  Maps geared towards gays can be found in the lobby. Frédéric informed me that the hotel will host its first gay-wedding since it became legal to do so in Argentina in the upcoming weeks.  Because the hotel only houses 11 rooms, the staff’s attention to each of its patrons is quite apparent.  One of the staff members made reservations for me that evening for an ultra-posh restaurant, (more on Tô soon), and Frédéric was extremely accommodating to my needs.  When I left at 4am to go to airport, a breakfast was waiting for me in the café area with a freshly brewed café con leche.

                                          Discovering the Rendez-Vous Hotel was definitely one of the highlights of my trip to Buenos Aires.  You must stay there to experience how a boutique hotel should be run.  It is simply wonderful.